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Vinous Table: Caffé Toscanini, Amsterdam, Netherlands
Vinous Table, Netherlands
Mar 2024
,Toscanini should be high on the list for any Italian epicures or oenophiles. The lively atmosphere is worth the entry price alone. Speaking to Pacenti later, he explained how regulars tend to come on Friday night and how customers are exacting in their demands with respect to seasoning, consistency of pasta and so on. At Toscanini, this is no problem. It is all part of the service. Factor a wine list that is so chock full of gems that I considered putting in a request to swap Bordeaux for Italy (only joking). Then you understand why this restaurant has been part of Amsterdam’s dining scene for almost four decades.
Slovenia: Just the Beginning
featured, Slovenia
Mar 2024
,So similar to northeastern Italy yet alien all the same, the wines of Slovenia are increasingly of note. The country is exploding with new projects, young talents and even cross-border collaborations. Now is the time to get in on the ground floor.
Merci, Monsieur Amiot: Clos des Lambrays 1923-2021
France: Burgundy, Verticals & Retrospectives, featured
Mar 2024
,Behind every label of an iconic wine lie nameless men and women whose combined talent and labor led to its creation. This vertical of Clos des Lambrays is dedicated to Etienne Amiot, a predecessor of Jacques Devauges, who oversaw the creation of these sublime wines.
Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s
France: Burgundy, featured
Mar 2024
,What a difference a year makes. After the decidedly exuberant 2020s, the 2021s from Domaine de la Romanée Conti show another side of Burgundy, one marked by a highly challenging growing season that tested the mettle of growers. In many ways, difficult years make for the most interesting discussions because individual choices so deeply inform the wines. There was plenty to talk about as Co-Directors Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal showed the 2021s in this tasting organized by long-time US importer Wilson-Daniels.
Cellar Favorite: 1971 Staatsweingut Eltville Rauenthaler Langenstück Riesling Spätlese
Germany, cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites
Mar 2024
,My adoration for any bottle of wine born the same year as myself is well-known. I sound like a broken record proselytizing the 1971 vintage. But then a bottle sashays along and vindicates my opinion, reconfirming that this is such a trove of outstanding bottles, arguably none more so than Germany.
Vinous Table: Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen, CA
Vinous Table, United States: California
Mar 2024
,I was very much looking forward to this dinner at Glen Ellen Star after a long day of tastings. The restaurant is in the small village of Glen Ellen, just a few minutes north of Sonoma, in the heart of Sonoma Valley. I spent a lot of time here when we worked on our Sonoma Valley map project a few years ago. Sonoma Mountain is just behind the restaurant, while Moon Mountain is east. Being in this unique part of Sonoma County always brings back a lot of memories.
Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic
featured, Australia
Mar 2024
,In south-eastern Victoria, the regions of Yarra Valley and Gippsland are leaders in the emerging wave of modern Australian wines thanks to a mix of cool climates and cutting-edge winemaking. This report showcases how these diverse terroirs, coupled with recent mild vintages, have delivered refined Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and even Nebbiolo that challenge traditional perceptions of Australian wine styles and quality.
Carmignano, Montecucco and Tuscany’s Unrivaled Diversity
Italy: Tuscany, featured
Mar 2024
,It pays to explore beyond Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano when looking for a diverse range of high-quality Sangioveses and blends across Tuscany. The wines of Carmignano and Montecucco are some of the region's best, often at prices that won’t break the bank.
Cellar Favorite: 1948 Coufran
cellar favorite, Cellar Favorites, France: Bordeaux
Mar 2024
,I do not wish to sound like a broken record, but allow me to reiterate the most sage advice I will ever dispense on old bottles of wine. Provenance is key. Perhaps even more than producer or vineyard, how that bottle has lived its life determines how it will show once released from incarceration.
Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution
Italy: North, featured
Feb 2024
,Veneto remains a hotbed of activity and a source of many of Italy’s finest wines. Amarone, Valpolicella Superiore and Soave, along with an exciting mix of IGTs and Bordeaux blends, make for a large selection of high-quality wines. Wide stylistic differences, varying levels of quality from one estate to another and new releases that span multiple vintages (especially for Amarone) mean readers have plenty to choose from.